Portrait of an Oyster by Andreas Ammer (Greystone)

Andreas Ammer might have benefited from reading my own Oyster a Gastronomic history before embarking on his operatic ode to the world’s oldest and most iconic shellfish. He does, I admit, show a masterly, gynaecological, Germanic interest in the sex changes of the mollusc before he launches into an empirical conjecture as to whether the oyster – in a natural history sense –  is more important than us humans – an argument that might have more verve if we stopped polluting their shoreline habitat.

But, but… there is a wonderful portrait by Manet at the front of the book – above – Beggar with Oysters, which in a way says more than any words. Here ostensibly is a man on the cusp, and at his feet are a pile of newly shucked oysters lying on straw, the oyster gleaming seductively up against the dark clothes, at that moment where it has just been opened, exposed as is, we presume, the man. But, but… on closer inspection this man is maybe not so much a beggar – his hat is felt, his beard trimmed, his cloak velveteen, the shoes are used but serviceable, his hands are inside the cloak, not supplicating, so maybe not so much a beggar, but maybe a gentleman on the cusp, confronting his mortality as is the oyster. Both maybe discarded on the floor, as if thrown away. The shadow also shows that this is a studio portrait, so the message is deliberate. But, but… a little research reveals it is in fact one of three portraits by Manet held at the Art Institute of Chicago, the others being Beggar with a Duffle Coat – where the hands are revealed and indeed supplicating but no oysters here –  and another the Ragpicker, where again there is a rubble of detritus by the feet, including, just, the shell of an oyster.

In the Beggar with Oysters the man’s clothes are painted in the kind of sumptuous dark textures that Manet might have used for a society portrait of someone’s wife, quite feminine on inspection,  but, but…on the Ragpicker the white shirt and blue trousers have all the vivacity and loudness of a Joaquin Sorolla painting, who was a bit younger than Manet but might also have known about the Spanish connection. For, for… Chicago says they were inspired by a series of paintings by Diego Velasquez from 1638 representing story tellers as humble beggars in Greece…

I don’t hold with Ammer’s views on gastronomy and the oyster, but I am with him on the genius of Edouard Manet and the oysters unspoken but frequent role in art.

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Seascraper by Benjamin Wood (Penguin/Viking)

“Thomas Flett relies upon the ebb tide for a living, but he knows the end is nigh”

THE flap quotes the Sunday Times as saying that Benjamin Wood is ‘Britain’s answer to Donna Tart’. Except he writes better and Seascape is a mere 163 pages where Tart aspires to a thousand pages. The similarity perhaps is that Tart’s Goldfish also has a young boy hero.

Seascraper is long listed for the Booker Prizer this year. It is set in a similar era as another contender the The Land in Winter. Temporarily they almost overlap. Perry Como is on the radio. Lawrence of Oliver is playing at the Broughton cinema, which you might guess is on the Mersey estuary.

Thomas is a teenage seacraper, a shrimp gatherer with horse and cart, the last of his family sticking to the old ways.

His ma ‘potters around unthinkingly, the way a clockwork mouse will skitter till it needs rewinding, humming to herself’”.

He has hopes of playing guitar at Fishers later. He has eyes for his friend Harry’s sister who is a thousand times prettier. He cringes at the thought of her listening to him strangling the chords of the guitar he swapped for his grandfather’s watch. He likes a book, but that was not something Pop approved.

The writing is very much of the now, the present, the everyday with its fears, and little tensions, he is late, the horse is sweating, the fog is thick, little familiar worries set beneath the grander scope of the shore and sand. The tide is coming in. The characters have zip, even the unnamed horse has some brio. And his daily trudge is going to be interrupted…

Ma is still in her ‘30s and not without admirers, Harry has still to make an appearance, Mrs A is auditioning to be Miss Havisham. They could all dance a few more tunes.  

The aspects are here for a grand novel but the format is short story. Everyone could do with more time, more ageing, more to do. The narrative clothes that do not quite fit, a bit on the small size to win the Booker, I suspect. But its weakness as a novel is also its potential to be a very filmable Play for Today (to be revived by Channel 5) with actors fleshing out its full potential. Great expectations…

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I Regret Almost Everything by Keith McNally (Simon & Schuster)

“In early August 2018, I tried to commit suicide.”

IN a pompous review the Guardian suggested this memoir would have benefited from a bit of editing. That would have been a mistake. The beauty here is the raw courage to tell things as they are. One man’s story. Unedited. Unexpurgated. To the point. There is no reason to let anyone else get involved.

Keith McNally has had a pretty interesting life. He left school in Bethnal Green, east London, at 16. He trod the boards, found his way to New York and opened a series of well known French inspired restaurants which at their height were making $80million a year. But that is only one part of the story; this is as much about mortality as it is about fame.

His friends and acquaintances – Arnold Bennet, Jonathan Miller, Anna Wintour, Chrstopher Hitchens et al are as well-known as the A listers who filled his venues at Balthazar and Prada etc each night. He was said by the New York Times, to have invented downtown. You could also say he showed America what French food was.  And then overnight, he has a stroke. It leaves him almost unable to move or speak. And he struggles with aphasia – which makes spelling difficult – and he also confesses, amazingly for someone who has raised so much money, that balance sheets still mystify him. What McNally does know though is people. And that sense of being engaged ripples through the narrative.

Of Arnold Bennet – who befriended him when he was a teenager in London, he notes, the books would endure, while the stage constructions of Jonathan Miller, another friend who happened to live opposite, would be taken down and destroyed at the end of a run. And it was those Miller stage sets that inspired him to build restaurants in abandoned Manhattan warehouses.

In New York he got his first job as an oyster shucker at One Fifth, was promoted to waiter and then general manager in a few months and then went on to open his first restaurant Odeon – “cobbled together by three amateurs with little money”. It is still there.

Oddly for such a successful restaurateur, the food gets scant mention – one hamburger, a few steak frites. This is not his realm. If you want salmon tartar, you go to the Odeon.

His chefs persuaded him to agree to publish a book of recipes. But he insisted the book needed someone particular to write an introduction. He offered the radical art critic Robert Hughes $40,000. Hughes turned him down. He had better things to write about. So McNally offered him to eat free at Balthazar for the rest of his life. Hughes accepted. And he did.

McNally’s enthusiasms are elsewhere – between services he was an avid theatre and film buff, on his travels he read more than most, probably some of the Bennet and Miller influence rubbing off, and two ex wives and five children.

He harboured an ambition to write. In fact he did write a couple of screenplays and a stage play before this. The struggle to write is one part of the story.

He takes his revenge on restaurant critics by turning his own critical gaze away from hospitality to the kind of expensive higher echelons of American health care, he now needed.

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Broken Shore by Peter Temple (Quercus)

“Cashin walked around the hill, into the wind from the sea. It was cold, late autumn…”

THIS small town crime drama is so ingrained in the Australian outback that it is a bit of a surprise to discover that Peter Temple was born and raised in South Africa.  Oddly, maybe, it reminds me of the underrated Grace Metallious classic Peyton Place. Swap out down town USA for hick Morton Australia, substitute male on female violence for male on male, and the same sleepy town prejudices, bigotry and after hours brawls. It also has some of the drive and grit of a Tim Winton saga.

Joe – Joseph, symbolically at least to his mother – is invalided  out of homicide for reasons to be revealed to the hollow where he went to school, sleepy but still rich enough to figure on the political radar at one extreme and a fermenting ghetto at the other.

  • “No it is not a big country town. It’s a shrunken city, shrunk down to shit, all the shit without the benefits.”

Part of the appeal of any detective yarn is we get a passport in to other people’s lives. Being nosey without being intrusive. The good burgher of Morton – half way between Sydney and Melbourne – is respected by all, a philanthropist in his big house, generous with his money, until someone bangs him on the head and he is helicoptered to hospital.

The humour is rough. And abrupt:

  • Jesus, she said. What room is this?
  • The ballroom. I have the balls in here.

Or

  • Not bad, said Cashin. Old Bushie recipe?
  • Tomato and onion’s not a recipe

Joe is a loner, except for two stray poodles he has taken in. He lives in the burnt wreck of his father’s farm. Temple cleverly builds his story around him, rather than from or about him.

The narrative is quick fire:

  • “Cecily began the search for her cigarettes. Today a quick find, in the handbag. She plucked one, found the Ronson, it fired at first click. A deep draw, a grey expulsion, a bout of coughing.”

Smoking is not the only reminder of the era when this was first published in 2005. There are still prescient mentions of Gaza and Catholic scandals

Sometimes the descriptions are forensic.

  • “An anorexic girl with a moustache and a pink-caked s pimple between her eyebrows brought the food. The eggs lay on tissue paper bread, the yolks small and pasta coloured. Narrow pink steaks of meat could be seen in the grey pig fat.”

Other times, just a short hand:

  • “Donny Coulter had a thin, sad face, a snub nose, down on his upper lip. It was a child’s face, scarred. He was puffy eyed, nervous, licking his lips.”

Things may not work out too well for young Donny. Another author might have reversed this plot and shoved the finale up front, but that would miss the slow, steady, rich build. The violence and the racism are not really the main fabric here, rather it is the smell of the small of the town, of the little lusts, the scent of bigotry, the deceptions and the back stories which loom over the present.

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Wild Thing by Sue Pridaux (Faber)

“Shortly after his first birthday, Paul Gaugin was bundled aboard a ship called The Albert, to sail some 12,000 miles from the French port of Le Havre to Peru.”

The Peru link above is not insignificant. This book was sparked and is informed by the discovery of Gaugin’s private diaries Avant et Apres in 2020, now safely ensconced in the Courthauld Institute in London. These are not diaries in the sense of Tuesday, had tea with the vicar. These are 200 pages of handwritten scrawl in the last couple of years of his life. They are a testament. The gospel according to Paul.  That men might live by different values. Their first-hand dynamic fills these pages with as much colour about his life and thoughts as his paintings. Interpreted by a skilled biographer in Sue Pridaux, the result is revelatory and valedictory.

One thing about Gaugin that most people agree on is that he was the Man. Degas bought his paintings. Matisse followed his style. He was there the night Van Gogh cut his ear off. He had visions beyond his canvases. The diaries were an attempt to put down in ink rather than oils.

A lot of what we presume to know about Gaugin comes airily from a fiction in Somerset Maugham’s A Moon and Sixpence, written in 1919, sixteen years after his death, and two films one in 1942 and the next in 1959. Re-reading the Maugham story, it is strikingly Colonel Blimp, an after dinner conversation, pass the brandy, old boy. You know that chap, the stockbroker who gave it all up and ran off to the south seas to paint dusky maidens. Probably gave them all the clap.

The myth might stick but Maugham does not even give Gaugin his real name but passes him off as one Roger Strickland. He opens with the notion: “I confess” as well he might, “I never for a moment discerned that there was in him anything out of the ordinary.” You are on your own on that one, Somerset.

Prideaux pretty much blows all those cobwebs out of the corners of our cultural consciousness. For a start, Gaugin did not give up a career in the stock exchange, rather the stock exchange gave up on him when it crashed and left him penniless.

Rather than the wasted absinthe drinking philanderer, Prideaux paints a visionary of the south seas seeking a religious message of an untouched Eden, of a purer primitive existence unsullied by the decadence of colonial Europe.

The Peru of the opening lines is salient, an influence Gauguin never fully relinquished. He was, or saw himself as, the little savage from overseas even when locked up in a French lycee. He never felt comfortable at home in the Republic, or even in his adopted Brittany where he was revered at the time by fellow artists and even now is part of the area’s iconolatry.

Prideaux’s other great asset here is that she knows her art. She wrote a biography of Munch. Her godmother sat for Munch. She has also written biographies of Strindberg and another on Nietzsche. I have not read those but I doubt they will have the same passion as we have here. As we progress through the book Prideaux falls in love with her re-construction, and not really in any dry academic way.  She becomes the muse, for us, a century later. And it is easy enough to explain because we have the art.

Through her lens we see Gaugin as the artist starving himself in his garret, working without a patron or sponsor. Yes, he had Van Gogh’s brother Theo as his agent for a time, and yes other artists, as was the way, might buy up his works, Degas in particular was a collector. Rather than the image of a stockbroker the indelible picture here is of Gaugin as the seaman and sailor, six years in the merchant navy, learning the rough arts of the sea and eventually making the grand journey south to Polynesia more than once, each trip taking two months and more and being nearly 10,000 miles apart.

And slowly this life unfolds, at first through diligent straitlaced research. His family were friends of the south American revolutionary Bolivar, his grandmother was a noted Communist and feminist Flora Tristan. His mother Aline was also of a person of danger as far the republic was concerned in France, but here immediately Prideaux steps in with a little personal aside pointing out that after two children in quick succession “her hands had been more than full of babies” rather than political chicanery. When the boy Gaugin returns to his grandfather’s house in Orleans outside Paris he finds a ‘gloomy and glaucous” welcome.

After his mother’s death he is taken in by the art collector Gustave Arosa who had his own collection of paintings by Delacroix, Millet and Corot. Impressed, the young man started collecting works by Manet, Cezanne and Monet and apprenticed himself to Camille Pissarro, he was on the way….the start, arguably of the modern in art.

In this Faber edition, his paintings are carefully positioned to match the narrative. Their colours, those backgrounds, political place holders, religious riddles… combine to wonderful effect. The papeback edition has a slightly different take on the cover image, which is interesting in itself, all hat and respectable pointed beard:

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An Island of Suspects by Jean-Luc Bannalec (Minotaur)

“Commissaire Georges Dupin had made a new friend.”

The first few pages dispel any notion that this investigation will just be another cosy crime. It is literature. It is blue. The sea, the sky, the Bretons even have their own word for it glaz. Claire is wearing blue. Blue is for the police.

Dupin is swimming. A seal comes up to join him. There is a cry for help. Dupin rushes to cover up his wet shorts. There is a body in the water. Not drowned. But strangled. Two, maybe three hours ago. The sea mist is down symbolically and they can barely see anything.

Day one and he is on deadline already. An event is planned to mark his 10 years in Brittany. His present from colleagues is to sit for a diploma in the Breton language. The primer is organised in practical chapters. “Eating (a comprehensive chapter). Drinking (an even more comprehensive chapter)”.

His indefatigable, brilliant supremo Nolwenn – “the world has gone mad, Monsieur le Commissaire. But don’t worry. I will deal with it.” –  reminds him he had better hurry this investigation up because such things are non-negotiable. Murders should be solved. Quickly. Social events cannot be altered. Boats though are a problem, a pet phobia, awkward for someone whose beat is along the coast. The victim was from the Belle Isle, one of the most beautiful islands in Europe

A hair-raising boat trip ensures, a history lesson from Riwag his inspector who is also coincidentally from, the island, also there is his other side kick the self-important Kadeg. “His more likeable side, by contrast, took a while to discover; it had taken Dupin years”. The hire car, to his delight, is an old Citroen Mehari. It is frog green which seems aptly different. George likes to do things his way. No roof. It was all they had left, boss. The team is back in action. This is the 10th of the Brittany mystery series, each one seemingly more impossible to solve than the last.

In a very French manner, no one gets into this book without due introduction: “Agnes was a petite woman with soft features. She was wearing functional dark blue cloth pants and a matching polo shirt”.  Micheline: “The small, robust-looking woman had a healthy complexion, sparkling eyes and seemed to be a jovial, dynamic person”. She has dedicated herself to setting up a museum for the Sarah Bernhardt who lived on the island. Dupin notices these things.

The Brittany scenery is as much a feature as the plot. After all this is where Monet came to paint. And Rodin and others.  Dupin needs quiet places to cogitate. He finds his perfect spot at Goulou. “Absolutely perfect. This, right here, was his place. Ar baradoz, paradise. Simply put in Breton. It didn’t get better than this.” It also happens to be a bar and distillery.

The investigation picks up pace, a ransom demand, a link to a kidnapping in Nantes…The colours change from blue to orange.

All this Dupin neatly records in his Clairefontaine notebook. Everyone on the island is a suspect, at least until Dupin notices that the garden was damp, there was a baguettes missing, there was a motive after all. And then it is all off to dinner, of course…and smoked mackerel on buckwheat blinis with an apple and seaweed chutney washed down with a white Sancerre.

Jean-Luc Bannalec’s structure and format are Germanic in their organisation, but then he is German, an adopted son of Brittany, real name Jorg Bong, a former publisher himself who concocts these expertly crafted mysteries, homages to a forgotten part of Europe. A pleasure.

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A Life in Fifty Books by Anthony Cheetham (Head of Zeus)

I am not inclined usually to fall for this kind of congratulatory memoir. But this is Anthony Cheetham, publisher extraordinaire.

He has brought many books to market down the years from Frank Herbet’s Dune to Michael Connelly’s Bosch detective series. He has popularised history with Antonia Fraser and latterly much science and science fiction.

There is a photograph of his library in a converted barn in Oxfordshire. It looks like a set for a Stephen Spielberg film called The Dictionary.

Themes, as he says, are: “History is a looking glass to make sense of the past. The Sciences define our understanding of the cosmos and formulate projects for the future. Fiction is the playlist of what it means to be human. Philosophy is the spirit of the wisdom that binds them all.” And they are all here.

We start with Homer and then Tolkien and even Donald Trump, who did not write or even read the Art of the Deal but Anthony is also a deal maker. The recommendations are trite and sweet – not to compete, perhaps, with the authors but room enough to say thank you to everyone who has helped along the way.

Sadly quite a few of the books are out of print or no longer easily available, even on Abe books. I really want to read Aime Tschiffely’s Southern Cross to Pole Star, first published in 1982. And quite a few others.  I reviewed one of his favourites here:

For a publisher I might point out someone was struggling with their InDesign techniques on the layouts, and £25 for 200 slim pages is pushing the boat out a bit far.

But it is hard to argue with someone who was instrumental in bringing the likes of Kingsley Amis, Ben Okri, Ian Rankin to print, who revived the reputations of Thomas Mann, Joan Collins and even Christopher Wood, aka Timothy Lea for Confessions of a Window Cleaner. And others, for example the novelisation of the film Alien by Alan Dean Foster.

Across 75 years, one can only wish there were more individuals like him with the vision to champion great writing through a corporate world. Chapeau.

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The Fraud by Zadie Smith

The trigger for this exhilarating romp through literary Victoriana was a sale at the auction house of Sotheby’s. A first edition of Charles Dickens’ Christmas Carol sold for a record sum. The inscription was to a Mrs Touchet. Meet Eliza.

Mrs Touchet herself is less than impressed by Mr Dickens, smarting at his usual jibe of touché, Mrs Touchet, a joke no one else laughs at. Her affections are for rival author, less well known today although you can find him for 99p on Amazon as Harrison William Ainsworth.

Perhaps the set up, the number of pages, 454, suggests a soporific Victorian melodrama, but that is one part of the conceit, the joke. Mrs Touchet does not do the melodramatic.

We are in London from 1830 onwards. You can almost taste the flavor of the old city. Gentlemen ride on Willesden Green, Kensal Rise is home to this literary salon.

Zadie Smith beams her heroine into this fusty salon of port sloshing tyros. She is the Mrs Touchet, aka Eliza, aka the Targe, depending on her company.

“She thought of herself as having several faces on show at different times to different people…”

She has modern sensibilities. She is housekeeper, muse, amour, dominant, flirt, but mostly a woman of little means in a society where men have all the means.

The shape shifting of fortunes cloud the background like the weather. Every short chapter-ette is change. It is news. The story shuffles slyly, leaping from one decade to another and back, from private to public, from scandalous to sedate.

The Fake of the title applies to more than just the main court case. Eliza is something of a social detective picking over the dilemmas of the time. The humour is Dickensian:

“They found Crossley and his sizeable belly in a quiet corner, wedged between the wall and table, already encircled by half a dozen dishes.”

We have the creaking, litigious, greedy machinations of old money, of inheritance, the passing of power. Slavery has just been disenfranchised itself, a few Africans arrive in London, there is civil war in America, the cotton mills of Manchester are grinding to a halt in protest. The empire is decaying.

And so is the house – the library floor has collapsed under the weight of books, Eliza is

abandoned by her husband, she pleads with cousin Ainsworth to take her in, he has married well but her father is now bankrupt. The good natured Ainsworth is furiously writing the next novel to keep them all afloat.

And then we have the Claimant of the title, the fraud although many of the people are frauds in their own ways, but The Tichbourne case is the cause of the moment – the heir to the estate thought lost at sea reappears to claim his inheritance. But is he real or a charlatan? A noble lord or a butcher from Wapping?  The Old Bailey is convened to decide, which becomes a riotous vaudeville.

Eliza bears witness, sharing her intimate thoughts, she confides, she whispers, she chides…

The second wives are voracious, hungry to spend the fortunes of empire:

“In mercantile matters – as in all others – the two women proved ill-matched. Eliza had a sharp eye for shoddy craftsmanship, political sympathy for the working man… Sarah had no sense of housekeeping in particular, not of money in general.”

Like some Greek chorus, the public voices intrude on Eliza’s private thoughts – the suffragettes, the mob and then even the handsome Andrew Bogle, the Claimant’s African man, descended likewise from tribal elders, disenfranchised likewise, to slavery in Jamaica, and now to speak for his master, their fates bound together, Jamaica itself abandoned while the lawyers decided who can run the farm, who owns the crop, who wields the whip, who inherits. No slavery, just dissolution.

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Death in Pont Aven by Jean-Luc Bannalec

THE light first drew artists to the north west of France. Most famously it was Gauguin and his portraits of girls in clogs and costumes, one of many.  Pont Aven, a sleepy one church town on a creek was where they would meet up. The town gave its name to a school of painting. They also named the nearby beach Tahiti in Gauguin’s honour.

This most westerly part of France was largely overlooked before the new railway brought the painters. It was a long way from anywhere, somewhere north of Bordeaux, west of Normandy. They drank cider, not wine. It was its own country until a few centuries back, known only in tales from sailors of the terrors of the bay of Biscay. This was Asterix and Obelix country.

But the vistas, especially the sunsets of open sky and sea, painted by artists from Robert Wylie (who died here) to Van Gogh to Monet brought tourists. And then readers of the first of what has become a series and TV starring Commissaire Georges Dupin. This first book sold seven million copies.

Dupin, newly arrived from Paris where he has been demoted to this unexplored, ragged landscape with huge forests, finger-like creeks, the blue city at Concarneau,  huge tidal swells, magic islands, prehistoric memorials of menhirs and dolmens, and legends. To the Romans Finistere was literally the end of the world, to locals in their own dialect “Penn ar Bed ” – the Beginning of Everything.

Just how impenetrable some of this culture might be is plain in the place names that smack of a language beyond even Gaelic – Quimper, Douarnenez, Kerfany.

Jean-Luc Bannalec is an adopted son of Brittany, a German publisher turned author writing under a pseudonym that he took from a village outside of Pont Aven. His real name is Jorg Bong. What sets him and his alter ego Dupin apart from other detectives-set-in-foreign-places is his understanding of the area. He has even written a guidebook, and a cookbook. And now nearly a dozen novels, each set in a different part of the region. Pont Aven was where it all started.

Inspector Dupin is still regarded as a foreigner by the locals. He is in search of the soul of the region. A naïf even.  His inspectoral team do their best to bring him up to speed because this not a region that is really very comfortable with the idea of being a part of France at all.

It is somewhere of  “enchanting landscape…traces of mysterious eras…untouched and unspoiled.”

At each turn there is another glance at the landscape – ”a stunning long dazzlingly white beach…”the entrance to the harbor with the little lighthouse and the buoys bobbing sleepily in the groundswell….””you could hear the sound of falling water all over Pont Aven.”

Dupin has an ally to initiate him in this new land, his secretary the formidable Nolwenn, a native Breton, still suspicious of anything French. She instructs him in all things Breton: We grow more artichokes than anywhere in the world, we have the second biggest tidal range of anywhere, we have the most varied traditional costumes of anywhere – 1266 in all – and we have 770 saints etc.

And we have a murder.

A reputed hotelier has been stabbed in his front room. Aged 91. And not just any hotel but the Central, the first stop for all the painters arriving by train…. The hotel was founded by the victim’s grandmother Marie Jeanne in 1879, much of which, if not all, is true.

Like all great detectives Dupin has his foibles. He needs his shot of coffee to think. He does not like going on boats. He writes his notes diligently in a red Clairefontaine notebook. He needs to go for long walks around the great coastal vistas, to think, to deduce. He likes his food. He likes his old blue Citroen DX.

The clues come slowly: the son, the wife, the brother. “The drama was still playing even if they could not see it”.  There is concern from the mayor worried about the tourist season (shades of Jaws), and higher up,

Bannalec weaves all this together with good humour like he might have been sitting on the dockside waiting for a ferry. There are unashamed nods you might conject to the interrogation techniques of Columbo, the pensive thinking of Morse, the inspiration of Sherlock Holmes, the whodunit sagas of Agatha Christie, even the pastures of Thomas Hardy, but Bannalec does the genre with elan. He is a good storyteller, his plotting is clever, his characters have bite, the vistas bristle, the changing weather mirrors the mood of the investigation.

And much of this is real enough. Even the Amiral café is a real cafe and has a menu now dedicated to Dupin (and one to Maigret who also had an investigation here the Yellow Dog). The painters and the caffe Central are also part of the local folklore. As is Flaubert who has a rock named after him around the bay where he liked to sit.

The wrongdoing is so much needlework pulling together patchworks of suspicion, of local politics, of rural intrigues. It is a proper novel. Crime in its proper setting. In the community. Georges to the rescue. Brittany to the fore.

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Regenesis by George Monbiot (Allen Lane)

“It’s a wonderful place for an orchard, but a terrible place for growing fruit.”

LIKE all good horror stories we start out slowly, the John Carpenter cruise around the suburban neighbourhood, albeit in this case we are digging in George’s back garden or what he calls his orchard. The title does not do this book justice. It might have been The Shit We Are In.

Monbiot’s arguments are elegant and polite and beautifully constructed, but just to ram home his message, let us write it out in tablod neon: The Global Food Machine, fed by the Global Agriculture Machine fed by the Global Drugs Machine fed by the Global Banking Machine supported by The Global Property Owners Club Ltd is destroying the planet.…Agriculture is not about farmers anymore, but it is about anonymous global corporative interest. It is capitalism gone bonkers.

You only need to read the labels on the supermarket packaging to see the influence of a small number of ingredients – principally soy and corn – to find the evidence. Worse than that, as Monbiot illustrates, is that we now grow more food to feed to the cattle, pigs and even chickens than we do to feed ourselves. All so the industry can support the likes of Kentucky Fried Chicken and other Global Food Brands. And these chickens are leaving a dirtier footprint on the planet than we do.

In this context government is impotent. Politicians and civil servants misunderstand what is going on, and as Monbiot illustrates again with stunning examples, where governments have tried to intervene it has usually been disastrous.

What this book lays on the line is if you want mass cheap fast food, this is what you get…erosion and destruction of the soil we depend on, a one way ticket to Armageddon, something that has already arrived for many species, like the brown trout, the barbell, the Wye salmon. All those pretty sheep grazing on the Welsh hills, have unfortunately also turned the pasture into a dead zone, paid for by the EC grants.

The brilliant Diane Purkiss – whose English Food I reviewed last – categorized ’s historic misunderstandings of how the food chain works (or does not) but here here we have the other side of the same coin, the up to date inventory of destruction. Do I believe Monbiot? Yes I do because I have written about it for 40 years.

His great achievement here – and this is a book with very nearly 100 pages of notes and references to back it up – is to harness all these Big Thoughts and put forward what is a Global Argument – the importance of diversity, the importance of weaning ourselves off an agriculture that is meat dependent, that is grant dependent, that is grubbing up not just the UK countryside but the Amazon, the rain forest, chunks of Argentina, more forest in Poland etc etc. These guys are out of control. Big agriculture is very bad news for everybody. We need to go back to local and small holdings. Before it is too late. But maybe it already is too late…

The truth, as he accurately diagnoses, is:

“Long distance trade and mass production favour transnational corporations and accelerate the homogenization of the Global Standard farm.”

The answer for Monboit lies in the soil.

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